The word ham itself refers to the back leg of a pig. Hams can be fresh, cured, or cured and smoked. Fresh ham is essentially a pork roast on the bone. It’s simply the upper hind leg of a pig, not processed, cured, or smoked. In the meat market fresh hams looks like (and is) raw pork. Cooked fresh ham tastes like a really moist pork loin.
Cured hams are sometimes labeled “fully cooked,” “ready-to-eat,” or “heat-and-serve.” Also known as “city ham,” these hams are wet-cured, meaning that they are submerged in or injected with brine, then smoked and sold fully cooked for you to glaze and warm at home. They may be eaten as is, but are more often heated to an internal temperature of 140°F for fuller flavor. These are the spiral-sliced varieties that grace holiday tables. Wet-cured ham is deep rosy, pink in color with a moist, slightly chewy texture.
A whole cured ham is the entire back leg of a hog and weighs about 20 pounds. You’ll often see these hams in the meat department around the holidays. Half hams are also available and come as butt end and shank end. The butt end comes from the upper thigh and has a rounded end, whereas the shank end comes from the lower portion of the leg and has a pointed or tapered end. Look for bone-in cured hams over boneless cured hams for more flavor (and a bone for the soup pot).
Country Ham is salted and smoked ham. There are uncooked and cooked country hams. Uncooked country hams are salted, smoked, and hung to cure. Nowadays, more and more folks are enjoying thinly sliced handcrafted uncooked country ham much in the same way as Italian prosciutto or Spanish Serrano. Cooked country hams have been salted, smoked, hung to cure – then scrubbed, soaked, and boiled to rehydrate the meat. One of my favorite country hams is made by “Nancy the Ham Lady.” She was one of the featured stories in my most recent cookbook, Secrets of the Southern Table.
I hope you enjoy this recipe for Bourbon Baked Ham. Happy Easter to those who celebrate. We’re having Passover tonight (no ham!) and I’ll celebrate Easter this Sunday. Best wishes to you and your family.
PS — need a Gluten Free recipe for your weekend? Check out this Chocolate Nut Cake!
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all photos by Virginia Willis except for the pigs. The pig photo is by the lovely and talented Angie Mosier.
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